> I just replaced my battery less than 60 days ago. The problem is the new
> battery died today. I've got it charging now. However, what could cause
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> -Ron
> CBR600F3
> Put an ammeter between the battery terminal and the battery lead with
> everything turned off. If there is any current flowing, you start detective
> work with multimeter and wiring diagram.
Keep in mind though that if your bike has a built in clock or other
electronic gizmos, a very small amount of current might flow even with the
ignition off. When I say small, I mean milliamps.
Also, is 13.4-13.7 in the specified range for that particular bike? Check
your shop manual or do some research to find out.

Signature
Jamin Kortegard
2002 YZF-R1 / 2003 WRX
"Hokey 600s and trackday usability are no match
for a good literbike at your side, kid."
- Michael
Vader - 27 Jun 2004 14:59 GMT
Thanks Jamin. I think I might be on to something. I checked the connections
yesterday and found the regulator/rectifier connection was very nasty. I
cleaned it out and now seem to be getting approx 14 - 14.5 at 2500rpm.
Hopefully that was the problem. Before cleaning I was barely getting 13.1 to
13.5. The shop manual specifies 13.0 - 15. is in range.
> > Put an ammeter between the battery terminal and the battery lead with
> > everything turned off. If there is any current flowing, you start detective
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> Also, is 13.4-13.7 in the specified range for that particular bike? Check
> your shop manual or do some research to find out.
Daniel Bannon - 27 Jun 2004 17:10 GMT
>> Put an ammeter between the battery terminal and the battery lead with
>> everything turned off. If there is any current flowing, you start detective
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>Also, is 13.4-13.7 in the specified range for that particular bike? Check
>your shop manual or do some research to find out.
Reading the Blackbird list at the crack of doom this morning, there's
talk about 'normal' voltage there, too. For Blackbirds, it's about
14.4 volts.
As you say, the value's in the manual.
A kindred soul known as Warchild went through a diagnostic process
similar to yours to sleuth his fried stator. On removing it, the
damage was also visible and similar to yours.
He has lots of farkles on his bike, being an LD-rider type with
lights, GPS, and 1,001 other funky devices. What first clued him in
were erratic readings from his Datel Voltmeter, an interesting device
used by power usage-conscious riders. Our buddy Clif also has
something similar wired into his Tiger.
http://www.fjr1300.info/howto/datel.html
'-----------------------------------------------------
' Daniel Bannon
' NW WA State, U.S.A.
' 2003 ZX636B Hercusaki, 1999 CBR1100XX
'-----------------------------------------------------
Vader - 27 Jun 2004 17:36 GMT
Still researching the wiring problem. I finding fried connector endings. The
headlight being the latest (one connector). Could it be that all of this is
caused by a loose connection? ...and the search continues...
> >> Put an ammeter between the battery terminal and the battery lead with
> >> everything turned off. If there is any current flowing, you start detective
[quoted text clipped - 30 lines]
> ' 2003 ZX636B Hercusaki, 1999 CBR1100XX
> '-----------------------------------------------------
Jamin Kortegard - 27 Jun 2004 18:02 GMT
> Still researching the wiring problem. I finding fried connector endings. The
> headlight being the latest (one connector). Could it be that all of this is
> caused by a loose connection? ...and the search continues...
According to the research I did online about electrical problems on bikes,
"most of the time" the problem is a bad connection. All the troubleshooting
guides I found recommended checking connections first, before checking
individual components.
I was at a NAPA auto parts store the other day, and saw some spray on
contact cleaner for use on electrical connections and components. Supposedly
this stuff is purpose built for cleaning up corroded/dirty circuit
connections. I'm sure there it's available at most auto parts or hardware
stores. Also, if your connectors are exposed to the elements, maybe some
dielectric grease would help keep them from corroding again by blocking out
the H2O and O2.

Signature
Jamin Kortegard
2002 YZF-R1 / 2003 WRX
"Hokey 600s and trackday usability are no match
for a good literbike at your side, kid."
- Michael
Vader - 27 Jun 2004 19:34 GMT
Thanks for the tip! I had a can of the contact cleaner in the garage. I
cleaned each one. I am inclined to believe at this point that the culprit
was a diry contact. Time will tell.
> > Still researching the wiring problem. I finding fried connector endings. The
> > headlight being the latest (one connector). Could it be that all of this is
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> dielectric grease would help keep them from corroding again by blocking out
> the H2O and O2.