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Motorcycle Forum / General / Sportbikes / June 2005grease question
I'm putting the cams back in my bike and the manual says to use molybdenum disulfide grease on the journals. The grease I have on hand is an all purpose type stuff (bearings/axle etc). It doesn't say exactly what it is. Is this the same thing or is molybdenum disulfide some kind of special assembly lube? Thanks Jason > I'm putting the cams back in my bike and the manual says to use molybdenum > disulfide grease on the journals. The grease I have on hand is an all purpose > type stuff (bearings/axle etc). It doesn't say exactly what it is. Is this > the same thing or is molybdenum disulfide some kind of special assembly lube? Hiya Jason... I never use Moly inside the cases... I'd just coat them with fresh engine oil... Larry L 94 RC45 #2 Have a wheelie NICE day... Lean & Mean it in every corner of your life... If it wasn't for us the fast lane would rust... V4'S are music to the seat of my pants... 1952 De Havilland Chipmunk... Yank and bank your brains loose... http://members.ebay.com/aboutme/-xlax-/ http://home.comcast.net/~netters2/ http://www.fox302.com/index.pl?s=vg&user=netters2 http://www.reeky.org/gallery/xlax > I'm putting the cams back in my bike and the manual says to use molybdenum > disulfide grease on the journals. The grease I have on hand is an all [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Jason # Dry Lubricant Properties - MoS2(molybdenum disulfide) # Minimize friction # Furnish high load performance # Reduce power input # Prevent metal to metal contact # Provide superior protection against wear, seizure, galling and scoring # Repel dust # Protect against moisture and corrosion # Are not affected by temperature variations over a broad range # Adhere well to all types of surfaces # Work themselves into surfaces for longer life # Liquid oxygen compatibility > I'm putting the cams back in my bike and the manual says to use molybdenum > disulfide grease on the journals. The grease I have on hand is an all > purpose type stuff (bearings/axle etc). It doesn't say exactly what it is. > Is this the same thing or is molybdenum disulfide some kind of special > assembly lube? If it doesn't say *molybdenum disulfide* on the can, don't use it on your expen$ive cam bearing$ and cylinder head... My Haynes manual says to use "moly-based grease" when installing the camshafts. You need to protect the aluminum cam bearing surfaces during initial startup, while the oil is building up pressure for the first time. All greases are not equal. There are "hard" greases for high temperature use, and "soft" greases for low temperature use. The high temperature grease doesn't flow very well, the low temperature grease flows easily... What *is* grease, anyway? Grease is oil, or molybdenum disulphite, or graphite, mixed with a soapy binder material like barium, calcium or lithium to make it stay where you want the oil or moly or graphite to do its job. I suppose you might find some molybdenum disulfide grease that is really hard, high temperature stuff, and you wouldn't want *that stuff* anywhere near your expensive cylinder head... You can buy a bottle of molybdenum disulfide with a label that says "Assembly Lube". I think the stuff I bought was from Bel Rey. It was sort of stiff and hard to work with when it was cold. Maybe warming the bottle in the sun before use would make it easier to apply. Suzuki sells "Suzuki Moly Paste", too. I haven't used that stuff... I installed the cams in my Suzuki engine using the Bel Ray Assembly Lube and forgot about that I'd used it. About a week or so later, I noticed that the oil in the sight glass had a strange silvery-grey appearance. I thought that water had somehow gotten into the oil, so I drained the oil and saw how the silvery grey color moved around in swirling patterns in the oil, and I realized that it was just the molybdenum disulfide in the assembly lube... It was a good thing that the oil I drained was just Castrol GT, not some expen$ive sythetic. I would have felt really stupid then... You need to protect the aluminum cam bearing surfaces during > initial startup, while the oil is building up pressure for the first > time. Don't the cam bearing blocks deserve moly protection at the start of every ride before the oil pressure builds??? Larry L 94 RC45 #2 Have a wheelie NICE day... Lean & Mean it in every corner of your life... If it wasn't for us the fast lane would rust... V4'S are music to the seat of my pants... 1952 De Havilland Chipmunk... Yank and bank your brains loose... http://members.ebay.com/aboutme/-xlax-/ http://home.comcast.net/~netters2/ http://www.fox302.com/index.pl?s=vg&user=netters2 http://www.reeky.org/gallery/xlax > You need to protect the aluminum cam bearing surfaces during > > initial startup, while the oil is building up pressure for the first > > time. > > Don't the cam bearing blocks deserve moly protection at the start of every ride > before the oil pressure builds??? No. Your cam bearings and cams are coated with an oil film every time you start the engine after it's been running, they aren't dry... The molybdenum disulfide assembly lube is used on dry cams in dry aluminum bearings... You can use motor oil if you want, that's what I used to lube the cams on my Jaguar when I rebuilt it. But the Jag engine had cam bearings. Modern motobike engines and many modern car engines just run the cams right in the expen$ive aluminum head, so when they wear out you either have to trashcan the head, or find an automotive machine shop that knows how to mill material off the bottom of the cam bearing cap and then line bore the bearings.... I'd bet you could do that to Mr. RC45 if he needs his cam bearings fixed... > You can use motor oil if you want, that's what I used to lube the cams > on my Jaguar when I rebuilt it. That's the point I was making... just use motor oil... Larry L 94 RC45 #2 Have a wheelie NICE day... Lean & Mean it in every corner of your life... If it wasn't for us the fast lane would rust... V4'S are music to the seat of my pants... 1952 De Havilland Chipmunk... Yank and bank your brains loose... http://members.ebay.com/aboutme/-xlax-/ http://home.comcast.net/~netters2/ http://www.fox302.com/index.pl?s=vg&user=netters2 http://www.reeky.org/gallery/xlax >I'm putting the cams back in my bike and the manual says to use molybdenum >disulfide grease on the journals. The grease I have on hand is an all [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > >Jason Interesting thread about this, earlier: http://groups-beta.google.com/group/alt.motorcycle.sportbike/browse_thread/threa d/e37909d5cb23042b/a67521b26cc88c10?q=Daniel+Bannon+grease&rnum=6&hl=en#a67521b2 6cc88c10 '----------------------------------------------------- ' Daniel Bannon ' NW WA State, U.S.A. ' 2003 ZX636B Hercusaki, 1999 CBR1100XX '----------------------------------------------------- > I'm putting the cams back in my bike and the manual says to use molybdenum > disulfide grease on the journals. The grease I have on hand is an all [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Jason I won't assemble WITHOUT moly grease, which is only about 80 cents more per cartridge! There is Moly wheel bearing grease, chassis grease, and assembly lube... any one of which does fine on my camshafts, and bearings. The wheel bearing grease is thickest, of course! So, I prefer to use the chassis grease in the grease gun, less mess. That lube is only for the first start, until the oil pumps up and the film is there! About to resurrect an 82 yamaha 750 shaft drive JYA, and there WILL be some dissambly and cleaning, and moly lube involved, before any start up! (it's been setting for three years, after a minor laydown, by a friend of my nephew (a Harley Mechanic). So, I have been GIVEN the bike, and, wanted one, anyway, after 9 years off of them...) just to putt over to the store, instead of taking the van or the 4 wheeler... plus, we'll put new brakes (cylinders seized, or missing), tires, battery...  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