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Motorcycle Forum / General / Sportbikes / March 2007Troy pulls a boner....
So I forgot to mention this earlier, and in the interest of full disclosure as to my lack of wrenchin abilities ( after seeing saddles post ), I figured I would tell my most recent boner story. So there I am last weekend, changing whatever oils are left in my vehicles, and I'm down to the 650. Last summer/fall it was 5-50W syntec and a zookie filter, this time I've got some leftover oils I'm gonna use. So I round up my leftover oils, and begin to pour it in! First a quart of 15-50W Mobil 1, then a leftover amount of 5-50W to get rid of the jug....and then ( heres the kicker! ) an opened bottle of 10-40W cage oil. Except....last fall, when swapping out the transfer case fluid on the Titan, I apparently dumped my leftover ATF fluid into a Castrol 10-40 quart jug, and without sniffing it or seeing it first, I begin to pour! Apon noticing the color...I go banana's. Sure, synthetic ATF is a long chain hydrocarbon, but it don't belong in the crankcase. Great. So here I go again, drain everything out back outta the bike, find some REAL castrol 10-40W ( in a moment of panic during the next quart in, I could have SWORN it was brake fluid the stuff was so clear ), pour it in and watch it run out the bottom until the color isn't red anymore. So when I'm finished wasting all this good motor oil, I round up what I've got, which is 20-50W Castrol I was accumulating for the big zookies summer oil change, and finally get the job done. ATF in the motor...what a twit. Been running the bike since then though, everything seems fine. I was worried about the clutch mostly, goo up the plates, slip central, yada yada. Who knows, but if it was bad, I figured it would happen to me. >, I figured I would tell my most recent boner story. Down here, a 'boner' is a hard-on (erect penis). Did you get some sort of sexual relief from playing with oil? > >, I figured I would tell my most recent boner story. > > Down here, a 'boner' is a hard-on (erect penis). > > Did you get some sort of sexual relief from playing with oil? No, he gets that from taking Timisms straight up. > So I forgot to mention this earlier, and in the interest of full > disclosure as to my lack of wrenchin abilities ( after seeing saddles [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] > plates, slip central, yada yada. Who knows, but if it was bad, I figured > it would happen to me. Any weird smell in the exhaust? I think you'll prolly be ok since the motor wasn't running, and you flushed it out pretty quick. Is ATF fluid as corrosive as brake fluid?  SignatureAndrew 00 Daytona 00 Speed Triple 71 Kawi H1 05 Infant -- Andrew 00 Daytona 00 Speed Triple 71 Kawi H1 05 Infant > Any weird smell in the exhaust? Nope. > I think you'll prolly be ok since the motor wasn't running, and you > flushed it out pretty quick. Yup. And it was only a little, I noticed it not looking like motor oil REAL fast. > Is ATF fluid as corrosive as brake fluid? I don't think so. ATF is effectively a thin motor oil like fluid, with weird additives. Those additives and their effect on the clutch plates were my real concern, and because it just ran through a warm motor I don't figure it was given the opportunity to screw up much. Not yet anyway. > I don't think so. ATF is effectively a thin motor oil like fluid, with > weird additives. Those additives and their effect on the clutch plates > were my real concern, and because it just ran through a warm motor I don't > figure it was given the opportunity to screw up much. > > Not yet anyway. automatic transmissions have "wet" clutches in them... you are okay... > automatic transmissions have "wet" clutches in them... you are okay... No, automatic transmissions have torque converters. Completely different sort of beast. Bob M. > > automatic transmissions have "wet" clutches in them... you are okay... > > No, automatic transmissions have torque converters. Completely > different sort of beast. > > Bob M. And you are wrong: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/automatic-transmission1.htm The torque convertor is not part of the transmission. It is between the engine and transmission. >> No, automatic transmissions have torque converters. Completely >> different sort of beast. >> >> Bob M. > > And you are wrong: Sigh. The torque converter in an automatic transmission takes the place of what would normally be pointed to as "the clutch" in a manual. That there are other clutches within the automatic is also true. I still don't think this should be taken as reason for thinking that ATF would be a good thing to put into a motorcycle's transmission. Bob M. > >> No, automatic transmissions have torque converters. Completely > >> different sort of beast. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > thinking that ATF would be a good thing to put into a > motorcycle's transmission. Furthermore, ATF apparently lubricates the torque converter. My mother's Thunderbird developed a pronounced, intermittent, and speed related thumping. After Googling the problem and getting past the 20+ hits to buy a manual that would grace me with a solution, I came across a free site that said to change the transmission fluid. An hour and $60 later the problem was solved. What's the worse thing that could happen? Maybe smoke out because it's not able to handle crankcase heat? It's oil man, it's made to lubricate metals. Probably has better shear characteristics than regular motor oil and will probably be better than standard oils for bikes anyway since motorcycles (save well engineered HDs) have only a single lube for both engines and their high shear transmissions! >>> No, automatic transmissions have torque converters. Completely >>> different sort of beast. [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > Bob M. Bob, i never suggested it was a "good thing", just pointing out that an automatic transmission has clutchpacks that are submerged in the atf.... in effect they are wetclutches. why you would assume i was refering to the fluid coupling(torque converter) i have no idea.... i had the clutch stacks and the planetary gear assembly from an automatic transmission in my hand about a week ago.... the torque converter was on the floor, no serviceable parts in that without cutting it open... I hope it was your own... > So I forgot to mention this earlier, and in the interest of full > disclosure as to my lack of wrenchin abilities ( after seeing saddles post [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] > plates, slip central, yada yada. Who knows, but if it was bad, I figured > it would happen to me. Actually I know a guy who uses ATF Fluid to fix stuck lifters in engines. He'll drain the engine and then fill it up with ATF and then let it sit there and idle for an hour or so. I think ATF has a lot of cleaning additives in it if I remember right so that helps really clean out the engine. It'll run with it just fine...I just prolly wouldn't wanna go take a 1,000 mile trip with it in there. =) SignatureStephan 2003 Yamaha R6 君のこと思い出す日なんてないのは 君のこと忘れたときがないから > I apparently dumped my leftover ATF fluid into a Castrol 10-40 quart jug, And this is the lesson folks. Never do this. OSHA has rules and regulations regarding storing materials in mis-labeled containers. Bad things can happen. Imagine how bad it could have been if he had poured the ATF in a bottle of Purple Gatorade. > So I forgot to mention this earlier, and in the interest of full > disclosure as to my lack of wrenchin abilities ( after seeing saddles [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] > plates, slip central, yada yada. Who knows, but if it was bad, I figured > it would happen to me. Allot of opinions here, not taking sides, just suggesting a site for all oil concerns.: www.Bobistheoilguy.com Don't let the name fool you, a serious forum. J. > Allot of opinions here, not taking sides, just suggesting a site for all > oil concerns.: > > www.Bobistheoilguy.com Don't let the name fool you, a serious forum. Well, sorta, as long as you don't drop in and mention you think Mobil 1 is Group III versus Group IV basestock...or visa versa.... >> So I forgot to mention this earlier, and in the interest of full >> disclosure as to my lack of wrenchin abilities ( after seeing saddles [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] > >J. Hey Troy maybe you can go read that forum. You could learn something.:-) Regards Mike Go Blackhawks! Go Cubs! Go Bulls! >>Allot of opinions here, not taking sides, just suggesting a site for all >>oil concerns.: [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > Hey Troy maybe you can go read that forum. You could learn > something.:-) I've been reading it for years. It is occasionally quite educational, once you figure out who the Spamsoil salesman are, and who likes Mobil 1 and who does not. >>>Allot of opinions here, not taking sides, just suggesting a site for all >>>oil concerns.: [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >you figure out who the Spamsoil salesman are, and who likes Mobil 1 and who >does not. Any Royal purple salesmen in there? Spamsoil now that is a good one. Regards Mike Go Blackhawks! Go Cubs! Go Bulls! >>> Hey Troy maybe you can go read that forum. You could learn >>> something.:-) [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Any Royal purple salesmen in there? Spamsoil now that is a good one. I haven't gone hunting them up because they appear to be quite fewer than enthusiastic multi level marketing Spamsoil people, but if you really want to find out just go and ask, its not a bad place for information like that in general. >>>Allot of opinions here, not taking sides, just suggesting a site for all >>>oil concerns.: [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > you figure out who the Spamsoil salesman are, and who likes Mobil 1 and > who does not. What's your opinion on Mobile1? >>>> Allot of opinions here, not taking sides, just suggesting a site for all >>>> oil concerns.: [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > What's your opinion on Mobile1? It's only half as good as Mobile2. ;) SignatureJamin "I don't want a pickle..." -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com >>>>> Allot of opinions here, not taking sides, just suggesting a site for >>>>> all [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] >> > It's only half as good as Mobile2. ;) Yes but neither are as prime as Mobil3 SignatureAndrew 00 Daytona 00 Speed Triple 71 Kawi H1 05 Infant >>>>>> Allot of opinions here, not taking sides, just suggesting a site for >>>>>> all [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > > Yes but neither are as prime as Mobil3 Ah, but what about Mobil3.14159 ? It helps my wheels stay round. SignatureJamin "I don't want a pickle..." -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com >>>>>>> Allot of opinions here, not taking sides, just suggesting a site for >>>>>>> all [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > > Ah, but what about Mobil3.14159 ? It helps my wheels stay round. Yep, pie are round. Cake are square. SignatureHeaven is where the police are British, the chefs Italian, the mechanics German, the lovers French and it is all organized by the Swiss. Hell is where the police are German, the chefs British, the mechanics French, the lovers Swiss and it is all organized by Italians. http://new.photos.yahoo.com/paul1cart/albums/ >>>>>> Allot of opinions here, not taking sides, just suggesting a site >>>>>> for all [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > > Yes but neither are as prime as Mobil3 :-) Before we get too weird, Mobil1 M/C oil is decent stuff, but as I understand, it is not a full synthetic, but a hydrocrack blend. I would not hesitate to use it in any bike, but there are better oils out there if that is what you want. SignatureHeaven is where the police are British, the chefs Italian, the mechanics German, the lovers French and it is all organized by the Swiss. Hell is where the police are German, the chefs British, the mechanics French, the lovers Swiss and it is all organized by Italians. http://new.photos.yahoo.com/paul1cart/albums/ >>>>>>> Allot of opinions here, not taking sides, just suggesting a site >>>>>>> for all [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > not hesitate to use it in any bike, but there are better oils out there > if that is what you want. And what are those? Not trying to be difficult, merely to learn. Mind you, I have little experience myself, some will say not related.. A make of oil that can withstand 18000 to 21000.(Two stroke) RPM prolonged is doing something right in my book.(Make not mentioned). I take an interest in high strung VW engines, air-cooled that is, which by modern standards are extremely demanding on the oil. If you do not understand why, please do not argue.. The latter is not polite or politically correct.. But neither am I :) As for the High Strung VW-dubs they use Motul of a motorcycle grade on the Autobahn when running tuned VW aircooleds. It has to do with the ability to transfer heat as well as lubrication, Most lubricants in the modern day would suffice when it came to plain lubrication, but not heat transfer.. Hill und sel and all that. J. > As for the High Strung VW-dubs they use Motul of a motorcycle grade on > the Autobahn when running tuned VW aircooleds. > > It has to do with the ability to transfer heat as well as lubrication, > Most lubricants in the modern day would suffice when it came to plain > lubrication, but not heat transfer.. So you are saying two long chain hydrocarbon molecules both sold at Wally World and spec'd for API SM use are now so fundamentally chemically different as to transfer heat in different manners/degrees? Wow.....that is definitely news. Do you have a reference to a source for this? Myself, if it were true, I would think that the direct results of such an event would show up in sump size at LEAST on modern cages using such wonder fluids. Modern bikes as well. Why not? If API SM #1 transfers twice as much heat as its counterpart, given otherwise similar operating conditions, it would strike me that only half the oil in the system would be required for heat removal tasks. Since we all know that a very small volume of actual oil is within the engine itself during operation, its not like the excess oil is required just for FUN if heat transfer capacities are twice as good in one oil as another. > I take an interest in high strung VW engines, air-cooled that is, which > by modern standards are extremely demanding on the oil. > If you do not understand why, please do not argue.. That's easy, they are crap. Left alone air cooled VW engines are fine, in a HD, briggs and stratton vintage tractor sort of way, but built to make any sort of power they are crap crap crap (unless you want to pay somebody like Raby a zillion bucks, but it's a lot cheaper just to put something designed in the last 2 or 3 decades in the back). Spent my thousands and thousands of dollars on them, won't be fooled again. Troy, for your amusement take a look at http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf and find the chart with HP/cubic inch. SignatureTweak >> I take an interest in high strung VW engines, air-cooled that is, which >> by modern standards are extremely demanding on the oil. [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > and find the chart with HP/cubic inch. i disagree Tweak.... i've built many vw engines over the years and have had great power and reliability out of them... my current tiny 1641cc engine with a turbo runs 15psi and puts 138hp to the wheels at just shy of 7k rpms.... and lives to tell about it... the current project engine is a 2276cc stroker that will be turbo'd and electronic fuel injection....hoping for 300 honest HP out of it...could get more, but building conservative so it will last... as far as the oil debate for ACVW's, i've heard and read it all.... i have always, and continue, to use Castrol GTX oil with no problems... probably ten years ago the big no no was synthetics because folks claimed they made the already leak proned(myth) vw engine seals leak.... incompatibility to the seal material was cited as the reason. those same seals are now said to be okay.... then the argument against using synthetics was that because the oil temperatures ran a little cooler that the synthetics *must not* absorb as much heat from the heads and that made the synthetics evil.... now we've come to synthetics being okay or even great for them... so who knows... its very similar to the argument that a higher zinc content in certain oils make them better for the ACVW. here is a site from a well known (in the VW community) company http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html i have not read it. > >> I take an interest in high strung VW engines, air-cooled that is, which > >> by modern standards are extremely demanding on the oil. [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > for 300 honest HP out of it...could get more, but building conservative so > it will last... Then maybe you can build me one, because every one I've either bought or built just haven't lasted, and it's the same for pretty much every other guy I know who owns them. How many miles are you getting out of them? I've got a dead baja right now and the plan I currently am cogitating is to use a Suzuki V-6 out of a Vitara. SignatureTweak >> i disagree Tweak.... i've built many vw engines over the years and have had >> great power and reliability out of them... my current tiny 1641cc engine [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > I've got a dead baja right now and the plan I currently am cogitating is > to use a Suzuki V-6 out of a Vitara. Tweak, I don't know your knowledge nor experience with building the vw engines...some folks just order up some parts, have the case machined then slap em together.... they will run...hell they'll run pretty good.... I've bought parts and just assembled them, back when I didn't know better... longevity comes from actual building the engine...all internal parts need to be balanced, both statically and dynamically.....the factory had horrible tolerances and the aftermarket parts can be as bad or worse than the factory parts.. the combination of parts need to compliment each other and I firmly believe that a nice set of gauges to monitor the engine is a must... factory cooling system needs to be fully intact including the thermostat and air directional "flaps" in the bottom of the fanshroud.... a good set of heads that compliment your "combo" and set the compression to compliment the choice in camshaft.(which should compliment the intake, heads, exhaust) and you can have a cool running, reliable, and fun engine..... I've gotten 80k miles out of these engines with no problems.... these days I typically freshen the heads up at 40-50k as a "preventative maintenance" step.... the exhaust valves work very hard under very hot temps in an air-cooled engine. so I consider it money well spent.... stock-ish engines(stock stroke, bore, and heads with minor upgrades in heads, carburetion, and exhaust) have lasted past 100k with no parts replacement.... and I run them... but I also know lots of folks, such as yourself, that have not had this kind of "luck" with them.... don't get me wrong, in the 20 years I've been messing with them I've had some bad luck at times...but usually due to using inferior parts...lots of those in the vw aftermarket.... and buying an engine prebuilt does not guarantee the sell is doing everything "right" or even using good parts.... a v6 conversion(blasphemy) would probably do quite well in a light baja.... > >> i disagree Tweak.... i've built many vw engines over the years and have > had [quoted text clipped - 41 lines] > > a v6 conversion(blasphemy) would probably do quite well in a light baja.... I don't think I managed to get 80k out of the last 3 or 4 I had combined. I've bought pre-built, had shops build them and done them myself...didn't really seem to make much difference. Valves drop, cases crack, etc. etc.. Buy the next engine that addresses the last one's failure and something else breaks. A V-6 conversion would get my baja running again, which beats a dead baja any day. Then I could just drive it, and save my money for race tires. SignatureTweak > I don't think I managed to get 80k out of the last 3 or 4 I had > combined. I've bought pre-built, had shops build them and done them [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > baja any day. Then I could just drive it, and save my money for race > tires. i've only ever managed to crack one case....that happened when a rod bearing decided it didn't want to stay between the crank and rod!!! engine still ran, but sounded horrible...i still claim responsibility for that one though, i cheaped out and used a stock crank(non-counterweighted) and a stock rod combined with high rpms....i have had a valve drop in a stock engine.... i have always monitered the engine well with gauges, but sometimes sh.t happens... the engine was an "unknown" to me, meaning in a car when i bought it.... it ran great, right up until the time the #2 exhaust valve head popped off....(i moniter head temps on #1 and #3)... fun cars i think... i took my fatchick 73 Karmann Ghia from my home here in Va to Florida last november. had no fear in doing so... it is a stock engine with about 40k miles though.... cruising at 80-85 consistantly throughout the trip.... if you do upgrade to a much heavier engine be sure to check out aftermarket (stiffer) torsion bars for the rear, or coil over conversion if your car is fully caged.... > i disagree Tweak... WTF? He CAN speak like an adult. Carry on sir... >> i disagree Tweak... > > WTF? He CAN speak like an adult. Carry on sir... sure he can... and *I* can disagree.... no permission from you necessary.... thank you, sir. > >> i disagree Tweak... > > > WTF? He CAN speak like an adult. Carry on sir... > > sure he can... and *I* can disagree.... no permission from you necessary.... > thank you, sir. And you can disagree without acting like you're 12. Count me impressed. >> 12:41 pm, "Joey Tribiani" <J...@yahoo.com> wrote: >> [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > And you can disagree without acting like you're 12. Count me > impressed. "i disagree tweak" is 12 year old speak...you are so f.cked in the head saddle... you need to pull that big fuckin melon of yours out of your a.s, the gas fumes are getting to you.... > >> "Saddlebag" <saddle...@aol.com> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > "i disagree tweak" is 12 year old speak... No, which is why I paid you the complement. > you are so f.cked in the head > saddle... you need to pull that big fuckin melon of yours out of your a.s, > the gas fumes are getting to you Good boy, now run over here Joe and I'll scratch ya on yer belly. >> >> >> i disagree Tweak... >> [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > No, which is why I paid you the complement. geeze....maybe i was as drunk as you were? i'm so used to you taking stabs at me i assumed(yeah, i know) that is what you were doing in a subtle way...sorry sir. >> you are so f.cked in the head >> saddle... you need to pull that big fuckin melon of yours out of your >> a.s, >> the gas fumes are getting to you > > Good boy, now run over here Joe and I'll scratch ya on yer belly. well it had been so long since you swang from my sack i was missing you a little...<G> > >> > [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > well it had been so long since you swang from my sack i was missing you a > little...<G> "swang from my sack" Now that's a keeper LOL. >> 12:41 pm, "Joey Tribiani" <J...@yahoo.com> wrote: >> [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > And you can disagree without acting like you're 12. Count me > impressed. disagreeing and telling why(based on actual experience) is pretty much the way it works.... you want 12 year old? bite me bitch...better? > >> "Saddlebag" <saddle...@aol.com> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > - Show quoted text - Now that's the Joey I know. >>> I take an interest in high strung VW engines, air-cooled that is, which >>> by modern standards are extremely demanding on the oil. [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] > here is a site from a well known (in the VW community) company > http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html i have not read it. About the only time that I would avoid synthetic oil is during the break in period of a freshly rebuilt engine, primarily to allow the rings to seat faster. SignatureHeaven is where the police are British, the chefs Italian, the mechanics German, the lovers French and it is all organized by the Swiss. Hell is where the police are German, the chefs British, the mechanics French, the lovers Swiss and it is all organized by Italians. http://new.photos.yahoo.com/paul1cart/albums/ > >> In article <ad36c$460b04dc$54d0dfaa$20...@news.chello.no>, > >> b...@bogus.com.Invalid says... [quoted text clipped - 43 lines] > in period of a freshly rebuilt engine, primarily to allow the rings to > seat faster. I think that is an old wives tale. My Ducs both came running synth and I've heard it's common on various cars nowadays too. I've read that the idea that synth is somehow "slipperier" than dino in simply untrue. The major benefit of synth seems to be the slower loss of its viscosity. >>>> In article <ad36c$460b04dc$54d0dfaa$20...@news.chello.no>, >>>> b...@bogus.com.Invalid says... [quoted text clipped - 41 lines] > untrue. The major benefit of synth seems to be the slower loss of its > viscosity. I'll continue to trust the judgment of the professional engine builders that I work with. They haven't been wrong yet. SignatureHeaven is where the police are British, the chefs Italian, the mechanics German, the lovers French and it is all organized by the Swiss. Hell is where the police are German, the chefs British, the mechanics French, the lovers Swiss and it is all organized by Italians. http://new.photos.yahoo.com/paul1cart/albums/ >>>>> In article <ad36c$460b04dc$54d0dfaa$20...@news.chello.no>, >>>>> b...@bogus.com.Invalid says... [quoted text clipped - 58 lines] > I'll continue to trust the judgment of the professional engine builders > that I work with. They haven't been wrong yet. It's not that synth is "more slipperier", or anything like that IMHO. I've rebuilt more engines than I care to remember, working in an automotive machine shop for about a decade. I used to put Kendal high detergent motor oil in after doing *ANY* machining to the engine. The synth oils just don't seem to have the detergents that the dino oil has. At least that's what I've been told. I run Rotella-T diesel oil in my Buells at the 2nd oil change. The 1st one, I run normal HD dino oil, "just in case". > I run Rotella-T diesel oil in my Buells at the 2nd oil change. The 1st > one, I run normal HD dino oil, "just in case". I tried some Mobil 1 synthetic ATF once..... >> I think that is an old wives tale. My Ducs both came running synth and >> I've heard it's common on various cars nowadays too. I've read that [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > I'll continue to trust the judgment of the professional engine builders > that I work with. They haven't been wrong yet. You mean like the ones who build the engines and fill them new with synthetic for like Corvettes and Audi's and stuff? > I've read that > the idea that synth is somehow "slipperier" than dino in simply > untrue. The major benefit of synth seems to be the slower loss of its > viscosity. Syn ain't quite what it used to be either. >>>>>>>> Allot of opinions here, not taking sides, just suggesting a site >>>>>>>> for all [quoted text clipped - 48 lines] > > J. Lubro-Moly and Pentosin are 2 German companies that make a very high grade full synthetic. Red Line is also quite good. Red Line has been around for a long time, I used to run it in the 1969 BSA Rocket III that I rode in the late 70's and early 80's. SignatureHeaven is where the police are British, the chefs Italian, the mechanics German, the lovers French and it is all organized by the Swiss. Hell is where the police are German, the chefs British, the mechanics French, the lovers Swiss and it is all organized by Italians. http://new.photos.yahoo.com/paul1cart/albums/ >>>>Allot of opinions here, not taking sides, just suggesting a site for all >>>>oil concerns.: [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > What's your opinion on Mobile1? As best I can tell nowadays after its conversion to Group III, its pricey for being no different than all the other fake synthetics. >>>>>Allot of opinions here, not taking sides, just suggesting a site for >>>>>all [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > As best I can tell nowadays after its conversion to Group III, its pricey > for being no different than all the other fake synthetics. Did Mobil start using group III for Mobil1 or just for the extended mileage versions? I've used mobil1(5w30) in 3 cages since new (65k - 110k miles each). I've had to open up each engine and was surprised how much varnish and sludge there was, especially in the lifter valley on the heads. Still, at the most I think consumption was less than a quart per 7k mi so I'll give it that. Now I use whatever oil meets the spec and is on sale. Myself, I'd rather buy reg dino juice and change it more often. I guess there's some debate about whether group III qualifies as synthetic. This report seems to go through great lengths to say it does: http://www.chevron.com/products/prodserv/BaseOils/docs/npra_paper.pdf Funny how some are almost fanatic about Mobil1. >>> What's your opinion on Mobile1? >> >> As best I can tell nowadays after its conversion to Group III, its pricey >> for being no different than all the other fake synthetics. > Did Mobil start using group III for Mobil1 or just for the extended > mileage versions? There is apparently more than a suggestion that the newer formulations in the 5-30 and 10-30 weights of all types are no longer PAO. The 5-40,0-40,15-50 weren't tested during the same timeframe by the people who tested the 5/10W-30. There was quite the crapstorm when the people who tested the 5/10W-30 grades told everyone the results.It didn't help when questions posed directly to Mobil 1 were answered with weasel words and hedging. It was even worse when the downgrade in basestock was accompanied with a major price increase. I've been using Castrol 10w-40 and 20w-50 lately, both Zookies shift so well that increased smoothness in shifting with synthetics is barely noticable. > Now I use whatever oil meets the spec and is on sale. And this jives with what appears to another shift in the last few years in the oil world, the API Sm standard is apparently real, real good compared to some of the past specs, so nearly all oils had to be improved to mee the new spec ( maybe its GF-4 I'm thinking of? ) so now even the cheapo stuff is better than it used to be. I have nearly 50 quarts in the garage of older Mobil 7500, cleaned out 2 or 3 WalMarts when they discontinued it, so the Titan is covered for the next year without any trouble. Two of the cages take 5w-20, and I just grab a quart of MC 5w-20 every time I'm at WallyWorld and call it a day. >Myself, I'd rather buy reg dino juice and change it more often. I guess >there's some debate about whether group III qualifies as synthetic. This >report seems to go through great lengths to say it does: >http://www.chevron.com/products/prodserv/BaseOils/docs/npra_paper.pdf >Funny how some are almost fanatic about Mobil1. Which is why they were so cheesed when they discovered the switcheroo. GroupIII qualifies as synthetic because a COURT said it does, and it is better than regular dino, but it ain't PAO for the super cold poor, low VI requirements for wide viscosity ranges or ability to take big time temps. But it does cover most people and the way most of them use their cages, my beef is the price, its still priced like PAO, which it shouldn't be. |
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