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Motorcycle Forum / Country Specific / UK Group / June 2008Paging sweller
You wouldn't have one of those nice oversize pilot jets for an MZ TS250, would you? You know: the ones that achieve a decent tickover? I'm certain mine's running the original, so you can have a tickover and hunting on the over-run, or a nice smooth overrun and not much of a tickover. You know the scene. Ta. > You wouldn't have one of those nice oversize pilot jets for an MZ > TS250, would you? You know: the ones that achieve a decent tickover? > I'm certain mine's running the original, so you can have a tickover > and hunting on the over-run, or a nice smooth overrun and not much of > a tickover. You know the scene. Never heard of that. Set the ignition so it's less advanced 2mm BTDC rather than 3mm. ...and do it with a dial gauge. My Supa 5 or Trophy don't hunt and both idle ok.  SignatureSimon > > You wouldn't have one of those nice oversize pilot jets for an MZ > > TS250, would you? You know: the ones that achieve a decent tickover? [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > My Supa 5 or Trophy don't hunt and both idle ok. Hokay. It was a common mod - I've just called Burwin and they have the jets for under a fiver. SignatureBMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Yamaha XT600E Honda CB400F & SH50 chateau dot murray at idnet dot com "What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time and hassle for no tangible benefit." > It was a common mod - I've just called Burwin and they have the jets for > under a fiver. I was an MZRC member when it was only 2 stroke and never came across it. The hunting never seemed an issue but I may have a certain "MZ Tolerance". Let me know what size it is they send you - I may have some in my boxes of carbs. SignatureSimon > > It was a common mod - I've just called Burwin and they have the jets for > > under a fiver. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Let me know what size it is they send you - I may have some in my boxes > of carbs. They said 4.5-5.0 SignatureBMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Yamaha XT600E Honda CB400F & SH50 chateau dot murray at idnet dot com "What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time and hassle for no tangible benefit." > > You wouldn't have one of those nice oversize pilot jets for an MZ > > TS250, would you? You know: the ones that achieve a decent tickover? [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Set the ignition so it's less advanced 2mm BTDC rather than 3mm. 2mm BTDC is *more* advanced than 3mm BTDC. SignatureLozzo > > Set the ignition so it's less advanced 2mm BTDC rather than 3mm. > > 2mm BTDC is more advanced than 3mm BTDC. Are you sure? SignatureSimon >> > Set the ignition so it's less advanced 2mm BTDC rather than 3mm. >> >> 2mm BTDC is more advanced than 3mm BTDC. > >Are you sure? Not sure how you can measure timing in mm anyway. Signature_______ .'_/_|_\_'. Ace (b.rogers at ifrance.com) \`\ | /`/ `\\ | //' BOTAFOT#3, SbS#2, UKRMMA#13, DFV#8, SKA#2, IBB#10 `\|/` ` > >> > Set the ignition so it's less advanced 2mm BTDC rather than 3mm. > >> [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Not sure how you can measure timing in mm anyway. Two strokes are set in mm and you use a dial gauge. A quick Google turns this up: http://www.geocities.com/spoomym/timing/timing.html It also explains advanced. To put it in four stroke terms the Guzzi (from memory) fires at 8 degrees BTDC and full advance is 34 deg BTDC SignatureSimon > Not sure how you can measure timing in mm anyway. Dead simple on a 2-stroke: http://www.kneedraggers.com/details/Motion_Pro_2Stroke_Timing_Kits--503549.html Signature'07 FJR13AW '99 EX250-F13 OMF #7 > > > Set the ignition so it's less advanced 2mm BTDC rather than 3mm. > > > > 2mm BTDC is more advanced than 3mm BTDC. > > Are you sure? Pretty sure, if you retard it you're firing at further before TDC where compression is lower, you move it closer to TDC to advance where compression is higher and make more power. Retarding ignition will make starting easier, advancing will make it more difficult. A common trick with points model RDs was to advance the timing from 2.3mm BTDC to 1.8mm BTDC to push the power further up the rev range, so it will pull higher gearing. SignatureLozzo > Pretty sure, if you retard it you're firing at further before TDC where > compression is lower, you move it closer to TDC to advance where > compression is higher and make more power Other way round and it's less to do with compression and more to do with engine speed and load. Basically, the further the point of firing is before TDC the more advanced it is (the spark occurs in advance of TDC). Saves me typing: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ignition_timing SignatureSimon > > Pretty sure, if you retard it you're firing at further before TDC > > where compression is lower, you move it closer to TDC to advance [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > Saves me typing: > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ignition_timing The c.nt that taught me all this 30 years ago got it wrong, or I listened wrong. Doesn't matter, I never really did much points stuff anyway. Thanks for pointing it out SignatureLozzo > > Saves me typing: > > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ignition_timing > > The c.nt that taught me all this 30 years ago got it wrong, or I > listened wrong. May explain why you've had to rebuild so many blown up two stroke engines... > Doesn't matter, I never really did much points stuff > anyway. The same principle applies to electronic ignition too. SignatureSimon > > > Saves me typing: > > > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ignition_timing [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > May explain why you've had to rebuild so many blown up two stroke > engines... I never really did, mine were generally reliable once built and left alone. I just checked an RD forum and moving timing from 2.3mm to 1.8mm BTDC is a common enough thing to do. > > Doesn't matter, I never really did much points stuff > > anyway. > > The same principle applies to electronic ignition too. I just set 'em up like the maker says in the destructions and leave them well alone from then on. SignatureLozzo >> > > Set the ignition so it's less advanced 2mm BTDC rather than 3mm. >> > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >compression is lower, you move it closer to TDC to advance where >compression is higher and make more power. Other way round, surely - if you 'advance' the ignition, you make it fire earlier, if you retard it you make it fire later, no? SignatureChamp What doesn't kill you only makes you stronger ZX10R | GPz750turbo | GSX-R600 racer (for sale) | ZX10R racer (broken) neal at champ dot org dot uk > >> > > Set the ignition so it's less advanced 2mm BTDC rather than > 3mm. >> > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > Other way round, surely - if you 'advance' the ignition, you make it > fire earlier, if you retard it you make it fire later, no? Yeah yeah, I got it wrong for 30 years....go on, poke fun at the foreign bloke. Like I said, it never really mattered to me, I just adjusted them as I was taught and left them alone. Whether it was retarded or advanced never really mattered to me SignatureLozzo > > >> > > Set the ignition so it's less advanced 2mm BTDC rather than > > 3mm. >> > [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > Yeah yeah, I got it wrong for 30 years....go on, poke fun at the > foreign bloke. Fair play though ... it doesn't affect suspension settings :) SignatureBear 2002 Yamaha R1 Saab Aero Sport > Fair play though ... it doesn't affect suspension settings :) How is it? SignatureLozzo > > Fair play though ... it doesn't affect suspension settings :) > > How is it? Honestly? Much better, but it doesn't *flow* like the gixer did (which I think is me as much as it TBH) ... oddly, I'm actually missing that old girl ... except the R1 is much more mental ... I tell you what I think: I think it needs Ohlins, full spec, front and rear :) SignatureBear 2002 Yamaha R1 Saab Aero Sport > > > Fair play though ... it doesn't affect suspension settings :) > > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > I tell you what I think: I think it needs Ohlins, full spec, front > and rear :) I think you're right. My mate Ratty has an almost new Ohlins shock for sale, I'll ask how much. I still think the front on your bike is set up way too hard. It's like the springs are suited to a 35 stone bloater, but the standard shock was set up for someone my weight. -- > > > > Fair play though ... it doesn't affect suspension settings :) > > > [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > the springs are suited to a 35 stone bloater, but the standard shock > was set up for someone my weight. The "Ohlins" springs are way wrong - my 98 was never like that. I would suggest that the front is the place to start ... need a decent set of R1 Ohlins forks ... if you hear of any at a reasonable price ... [1] [1] I have decided not to go mad ... but I'm prepared to spend "some" ... ATM I think even stock forks may be a better bet, if they're set up like 98 R1s SignatureBear 2002 Yamaha R1 Saab Aero Sport |
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