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Motorcycle Forum / Country Specific / UK Group / August 2008It's alive! (GPz550)
Hi all, Well, I seem to have my very first 4, running in the garden! ;-) The neighbour dug this 1986 GPz550 out for me this morning and I picked it up an hour ago. Luckily the old (but still reasonably good) battery out of daughters scooter seemed to be a good fit and I had it spinning over ok. I splash of petrol out of the 5 gal Jerry can, a quick drain on all the float bowls to see if anything was coming through and with some choke, a tiny cough and a splutter she fired up! ;-) I didn't run it for long because I was suspicious of how much 'oil' was in the engine (you had to lay it over (away) to see the level in the sight glass) and when I drained and re-filled it again it seemed to take half as much as I took out (and probably where all the petrol had gone. Once I've got it a bit tidier I'll change the oil and filter again properly). Fired it up, all pipes running hot and it seems to tick over and rev up a treat .. ;-) The rear brake seems to drag quite a bit and the foot pedal seems to go to the stop. The fronts feel pretty dead so I'll probably start with the brakes, stripping and cleaning so I know all is ok. The disks feel good (no ridges, cracks or lips) and look like stainless ones (iron would have been red rusty after 3 years outside). I also noticed all the rubbers that join the carbs to the air box seem to be not on the carbs and from a quick poke they seem very hard (not rubbery at all). Is this typical, do I just get them back on, is there something I can do with these to make them more pliable or am I in for a new set? Also the front brake lever is snapped off at the end .. eBay? Oh, and the right hand bar feels a bit lose on the stanchion, how do I tighten it up please? I put the little probe into the battery and that stopped that light flashing, just need a bit more fuel to see if the lcd fuel gauge actually works (it does it's little disco thing when you switch on so I know the display does). £35 to transfer the Comp insurance from the CB Two Fifty to this and about £100 /pa normally (£97 TPFT so not worth dropping back). Can anyone remember which way the fuel tap works please? (obviously I've found ON or RES just not sure which is off) and any other thoughts as to what bits I should check / do please? All the best .. T i m p.s. As I went over to get the 550 he was just loading an old XT125 onto another neighbours scrap lorry. It had been running but was nicked and a bit bashed about (couldn't start it, got angry with it) and found locally again. I *nearly* asked him if I could take that as well but with umpteen bikes and 1,000,000 other things I'm supposed to be sorting ... <sigh> > Hi all, > > Well, I seem to have my very first 4, running in the garden! ;-) Yay! <Snip> > The rear brake seems to drag quite a bit and the foot pedal seems to > go to the stop. Seized fronts and spongey rear. Easily fixed. A caliper strip and rebuild and new fluid. Maybe new steel hoses. > I also noticed all the rubbers that join the carbs to the air box seem > to be not on the carbs and from a quick poke they seem very hard (not > rubbery at all). Is this typical, do I just get them back on, is there > something I can do with these to make them more pliable or am I in for > a new set? Pour boiling water over them. It softens them nicely. > Also the front brake lever is snapped off at the end .. eBay? Yep. Or any supplier > Oh, and the right hand bar feels a bit lose on the stanchion, how do I > tighten it up please? Er, by tightening up the securing bolts. > I put the little probe into the battery and that stopped that light > flashing, just need a bit more fuel to see if the lcd fuel gauge > actually works (it does it's little disco thing when you switch on so > I know the display does). It will. They rarely give trouble. > Can anyone remember which way the fuel tap works please? (obviously > I've found ON or RES just not sure which is off) and any other > thoughts as to what bits I should check / do please? There's no OFF position. It's a vacuum fuel tap so only passes fuel when the engine's turning over. There will be a PRIME position, though.  SignatureBMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Yamaha XT600E Honda CB400F chateau dot murray at idnet dot com "What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time and hassle for no tangible benefit." >> Can anyone remember which way the fuel tap works please? (obviously >> I've found ON or RES just not sure which is off) and any other [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > There will be a PRIME position, though. PRIME is in-between ON and RES, if you're sure you've found them. SignatureEddie eddie@deguello.org His: ZX-9R, Elefant 900 http://www.last.fm/group/ukrm Hers: Monster S4R, GSX600F (breaking, everything must go!) >>> Can anyone remember which way the fuel tap works please? (obviously >>> I've found ON or RES just not sure which is off) and any other [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > >PRIME is in-between ON and RES, if you're sure you've found them. Well I've found one or the other because there was no fuel coming through, I moved the tap then there was Eddie. ;-) I suppose if it had been left in the PRIME position and a float jet was leaking it could have filled the sump with fuel (I don't think it was water as it smelled like fuel and didn't look all emulsified)? He says he has the Haynes BOL for it so that might help on a few points. All the best .. T i m > I suppose if it had been left in the PRIME position and a float jet > was leaking it could have filled the sump with fuel (I don't think it > was water as it smelled like fuel and didn't look all emulsified)? Run the engine with the sump breather pipe disconnected from the airbox, a petrol / oil mix will pump smoke out of the sump once the bike is slightly warmed up. It took 3 changes of oil to clear the petrol from the sump when it happened to me (broken tap, grit in the float bowls), and several hundred miles before the clutch sorted itself out. You'll need a bicycle pump for the front forks and a guage that reads from 5-12 psi. Or a ruler, to measure the fork extension, I suppose. >> I suppose if it had been left in the PRIME position and a float jet >> was leaking it could have filled the sump with fuel (I don't think it [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >airbox, a petrol / oil mix will pump smoke out of the sump once the >bike is slightly warmed up. This is even after I've changed the oil yes (to help clear remnants etc)? >It took 3 changes of oil to clear the petrol from the sump when it >happened to me (broken tap, grit in the float bowls), Ah, I think I might be tempted to remove the carbs and strip them down but at the moment it's a touch of don't fix what's not broken? > and several >hundred miles before the clutch sorted itself out. Oh, what were the symptoms please Simian? >You'll need a bicycle pump for the front forks and a guage that reads >from 5-12 psi. Or a ruler, to measure the fork extension, I suppose. Yeah I saw the extra bits on the front of the front fork sliders, that's the anti dive is it, does it work (I mean did it ever, not just mine)? ;-) All the best .. T i m >> You'll need a bicycle pump for the front forks and a guage that reads >>from 5-12 psi. Or a ruler, to measure the fork extension, I suppose. > > Yeah I saw the extra bits on the front of the front fork sliders, No, the bike pump is for pressuring the front forks, nothing to do with the anti-dive. There should be a valve just under the top yoke on one side, with a link pipe to the other. Use a gauge and a hand pump to adjust the pressure to ~12psi. Don't over-pressure it, or you'll probably pop something. This is, of course, assuming that they still hold pressure... > that's the anti dive is it, does it work (I mean did it ever, not just > mine)? ;-) No, it doesn't. ISTR that a common hack was to remove the gubbins and blank it all off (I never bothered), but I was told recently that you need to make a bypass thingy for where it bolts onto the fork to let the fluid move. SignatureEddie eddie@deguello.org His: ZX-9R, Elefant 900 http://www.last.fm/group/ukrm Hers: Monster S4R, GSX600F (breaking, everything must go!) >>> You'll need a bicycle pump for the front forks and a guage that reads >>>from 5-12 psi. Or a ruler, to measure the fork extension, I suppose. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >adjust the pressure to ~12psi. Don't over-pressure it, or you'll >probably pop something. Ah, gotit, ta. So the air assists the springs (seen in the fiche)? >This is, of course, assuming that they still hold pressure... Well, if it means anything they seemed to look and feel alright when I wheeled it over and braked a few times to check the front brakes / headset etc. >> that's the anti dive is it, does it work (I mean did it ever, not just >> mine)? ;-) [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >need to make a bypass thingy for where it bolts onto the fork to let the >fluid move. (understood) And more good info ta. All the best .. T i m >> No, the bike pump is for pressuring the front forks, nothing to do with >> the anti-dive. There should be a valve just under the top yoke on one [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Ah, gotit, ta. So the air assists the springs (seen in the fiche)? Yes. >> This is, of course, assuming that they still hold pressure... > > Well, if it means anything they seemed to look and feel alright when I > wheeled it over and braked a few times to check the front brakes / > headset etc. IIRC, if they weren't pressured it wasn't really noticeable when pushing it around, but it made a world of difference when you rode it. I vaguely remember that it used to feel like there was a problem with the back end. SignatureEddie eddie@deguello.org His: ZX-9R, Elefant 900 http://www.last.fm/group/ukrm Hers: Monster S4R, GSX600F (breaking, everything must go!) > > Run the engine with the sump breather pipe disconnected from the > > airbox, a petrol / oil mix will pump smoke out of the sump once the > > bike is slightly warmed up. > > This is even after I've changed the oil yes (to help clear remnants > etc)? Yup, If the contamination wasn't particularly bad, then it'll probably be OK, but if you've got half a tank drained into the sump, the remnants of oil after a change still contain a significant amount of petrol. > > It took 3 changes of oil to clear the petrol from the sump when it > > happened to me (broken tap, grit in the float bowls), > > Ah, I think I might be tempted to remove the carbs and strip them down > but at the moment it's a touch of don't fix what's not broken? Wouldn't bother if it's running properly, just don't leave it on prime. > > and several > > hundred miles before the clutch sorted itself out. > > Oh, what were the symptoms please Simian? Slip then grab. > > You'll need a bicycle pump for the front forks and a guage that > > reads from 5-12 psi. Or a ruler, to measure the fork extension, I [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > that's the anti dive is it, does it work (I mean did it ever, not just > mine)? ;-) Like Eddie said, the forks are air sprung. On the left fork there's a tyre valve type thing. The BOL says something like 8-12 psi, I think. Put too much in and the forks over extend and top out, too little and they bottom out. I think 10psi was the magic figure, but I'd have to check to make sure. The biggest problem with the handling of the GPZ is the forks being too soft on slow compression, but rock hard on fast compression, there is no way of fixing both of these problems at the same time, other than by riding as smoothly as you can. >> > Run the engine with the sump breather pipe disconnected from the >> > airbox, a petrol / oil mix will pump smoke out of the sump once the [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] >remnants of oil after a change still contain a significant amount of >petrol. I drained out probably 4 l of a runny oil looking fluid that had a bit of a petroly smell about it. It still felt very much like oil but moved more like fork oil (even when cold). >> > It took 3 changes of oil to clear the petrol from the sump when it >> > happened to me (broken tap, grit in the float bowls), [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > >Wouldn't bother if it's running properly, just don't leave it on prime. Ok. I can't actually read what it says on the tap as yet (rusty) and don't have a manual or handbook as yet. I guess I can pull the fuel pipe and see what does what though (and don't leave it in PRIME when I find it) ;-) >> > and several >> > hundred miles before the clutch sorted itself out. >> >> Oh, what were the symptoms please Simian? > >Slip then grab. Ok .. >> > You'll need a bicycle pump for the front forks and a guage that >> > reads from 5-12 psi. Or a ruler, to measure the fork extension, I [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > >Like Eddie said, the forks are air sprung. Ta. > On the left fork there's a >tyre valve type thing. The BOL says something like 8-12 psi, I think. >Put too much in and the forks over extend and top out, too little and >they bottom out. I think 10psi was the magic figure, but I'd have to >check to make sure. Ok I've sent the assembly on the fiche and have a pump / gauge so I'll check it out when I can. >The biggest problem with the handling of the GPZ is the forks being too >soft on slow compression, but rock hard on fast compression, there is >no way of fixing both of these problems at the same time, other than by >riding as smoothly as you can. Ok, well I try to do that anyway but at least I know what to look out for now. All the best and thanks again .. T i m T i m <news@spaced.me.uk> wrote in uk.rec.motorcycles .. > I drained out probably 4 l of a runny oil looking fluid that had a bit > of a petroly smell about it. It still felt very much like oil but > moved more like fork oil (even when cold). Chuck a lighted match in a little bit and see if it says Wuff. > Ok. I can't actually read what it says on the tap as yet (rusty) and > don't have a manual or handbook as yet. I guess I can pull the fuel > pipe and see what does what though (and don't leave it in PRIME when I > find it) ;-) IWHT running it on prime, it will run like sh.t and use fuel like a fish drinks water (yes, yes, I know!). Signaturefrag Microplanet Gravity Beta version : http://www.ukrm.co.uk/gravity > T i m <news@spaced.me.uk> wrote in uk.rec.motorcycles .. >> [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > IWHT running it on prime, it will run like sh.t and use fuel like a > fish drinks water (yes, yes, I know!). "Prime" actually means "Open, Even When The Engine Isn't Running", and is found on vacuum-operated taps. I think you're thinking of the choke. >> T i m <news@spaced.me.uk> wrote in uk.rec.motorcycles .. >>> [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >"Prime" actually means "Open, Even When The Engine Isn't Running", and is >found on vacuum-operated taps. I think you're thinking of the choke. Ah, that would make more sense. The CB Two Fifty may have something wrong in the carb (or it's been setup badly) as although it starts on the button when cold it is really quite touchy about running on choke (or even partial choke) and not happy till it's warmed up a bit (2 mins or so)? It seems to have a real flat / dead spot off high tick over yet will start at the hint of the starter and tick over very slowly when warm. I picked up a spare carb (ebay) with the intention of having a potentially lower mileage one cleaned and ready to swap over (the CB has done 60k miles). Just not got rounduit yet. :-( All the best .. T i m platypus <monotreme@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in uk.rec.motorcycles .. > > T i m <news@spaced.me.uk> wrote in uk.rec.motorcycles .. > >> [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > found on vacuum-operated taps. I think you're thinking of the choke. > Ah right, thanks. Every days a school day, etc. I knew it had something to do with priming the carbs before starting from dry. Do bikes that have vaccum operated fuel taps have the usual float and cut off valve in the "where the float would go if it had one" bowl? I'm trying to think of a reason you'd put the fuel tap onto "Off" (whether by tap or vaccum), all I can come up with are maintenance, if somethings f.cked and leaking, an accident or for storage / transport? Signaturefrag Microplanet Gravity Beta version : http://www.ukrm.co.uk/gravity > Do bikes that have vaccum operated fuel taps have the usual float and cut > off valve in the "where the float would go if it had one" bowl? Yes. The tap just lets fuel flow, it doesn't regulate it at all. > I'm trying to think of a reason you'd put the fuel tap onto "Off" (whether > by tap or vaccum), all I can come up with are maintenance, if somethings > f.cked and leaking, an accident or for storage / transport? Yes to all of those. SignatureEddie eddie@deguello.org His: ZX-9R, Elefant 900 http://www.last.fm/group/ukrm Hers: Monster S4R, GSX600F (breaking, everything must go!) >T i m <news@spaced.me.uk> wrote in uk.rec.motorcycles .. >> [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > >Chuck a lighted match in a little bit and see if it says Wuff. Not sure it would have Frag as even though it didn't smell just like oil I'm not sure it was that fumey either. Mind you, had what little he probably had in the tank actually leaked through the carbs and into the engine may have long since lost all it's lighter fractions (benzene etc). It's funny what people say about fresh fuel etc. I dare say they are right when it comes to performance engines but the REB350 and my old kitcar would probably run on paraffin and the fuel now in the 550 is probably 5 years old (and has been in a sealed Jerry can all that time). It doesn't seem to mind it (starts and runs smooth enough). ;-) Just think how fast it will go with some real fresh fuel in it eh! >> Ok. I can't actually read what it says on the tap as yet (rusty) and >> don't have a manual or handbook as yet. I guess I can pull the fuel [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >IWHT running it on prime, it will run like sh.t and use fuel like a fish >drinks water (yes, yes, I know!). I can understand how it could be a problem if you have a stuck float valve (and the fuel runs past it even when the engine isn't running) but not if left on when running normally Frag? All the best .. T i m T i m <news@spaced.me.uk> wrote in uk.rec.motorcycles .. > >Chuck a lighted match in a little bit and see if it says Wuff. > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > the engine may have long since lost all it's lighter fractions > (benzene etc). Ah well, oil is cheap. I would have filled it with the cheapest orrid new stuff I could find, run it for a week, then do the same, then change it and filter for decent stuff. Flush the engine out. > Just think how fast it will go with some real fresh fuel in it eh! Heh, 98 RON. > >IWHT running it on prime, it will run like sh.t and use fuel like a fish > >drinks water (yes, yes, I know!). > > I can understand how it could be a problem if you have a stuck float > valve (and the fuel runs past it even when the engine isn't running) > but not if left on when running normally Frag? Nope, ignore that, me getting my chokes and primes mixed up. Signaturefrag Microplanet Gravity Beta version : http://www.ukrm.co.uk/gravity >T i m <news@spaced.me.uk> wrote in uk.rec.motorcycles .. >> [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >stuff I could find, run it for a week, then do the same, then change it and >filter for decent stuff. Flush the engine out. Yep, that's my plan Frag. ;-) I first made sure it would run (but didn't run or rev it etc) then drained the 'oil' out. I span it over a couple more times whilst it was draining and rocked it both sides to get as much out as possible. I then re-filled it with some Morrises bike oil I happened to have kicking about and ran it a bit longer and revved it a bit to ensure it all got spread about a bit. I've also ordered a magnetic sump nut and oil filter for when I get to the next stage. >> Just think how fast it will go with some real fresh fuel in it eh! > >Heh, 98 RON. Do do Ron Ron? ;-) >> >IWHT running it on prime, it will run like sh.t and use fuel like a fish >> >drinks water (yes, yes, I know!). [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > >Nope, ignore that, me getting my chokes and primes mixed up. Ok. My petrol strimmer has a nice primer pump but the hedge cutter has a vacum operated fuel pump and no real way of priming it easily. A bit of damp start up the inlet manifold / filter spins it up enough to get the fuel through quickly though. ;-) All the best .. T i m > > I can understand how it could be a problem if you have a stuck float > > valve (and the fuel runs past it even when the engine isn't running) > > but not if left on when running normally Frag? > > Nope, ignore that, me getting my chokes and primes mixed up. ...and tickles. SignatureSimon > > > You'll need a bicycle pump for the front forks and a guage that > > > reads from 5-12 psi. Or a ruler, to measure the fork extension, I [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > they bottom out. I think 10psi was the magic figure, but I'd have to > check to make sure. It's 8.5 psi on the GT750 but has bugger all effect. Getting the rears right 25 psi does. The Guzzi's front forks are 25 psi which does have an effect. You choose. Personally, I don't bother about the air in the front forks on the Kawasaki. The GT doesn't have anti dive though SignatureSimon >> Like Eddie said, the forks are air sprung. On the left fork there's a >> tyre valve type thing. The BOL says something like 8-12 psi, I think. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >You choose. Personally, I don't bother about the air in the front forks >on the Kawasaki. The GT doesn't have anti dive though The GPz's anti-dive is in no way related to the air in the forks, as it's a hydraulic take-off running off the brake hose. And was a complete waste of time in any case. Not sure if it had ever had any effect, but on the one I had it certainly didn't add to the overall handling. Signature_______ .'_/_|_\_'. Ace (b.rogers at ifrance.com) \`\ | /`/ `\\ | //' BOTAFOT#3, SbS#2, UKRMMA#13, DFV#8, SKA#2, IBB#10 `\|/` ` >The GPz's anti-dive is in no way related to the air in the forks, as >it's a hydraulic take-off running off the brake hose. > >And was a complete waste of time in any case. Not sure if it had ever >had any effect, but on the one I had it certainly didn't add to the >overall handling. Is it worth removing though Ace (mention of substituting bits) or should I just leave it all on there? All the best .. T i m p.s. Does it reduce the hydraulic fluid movement in the fork legs when the front brake is applied? > > The GPz's anti-dive is in no way related to the air in the forks, as > > it's a hydraulic take-off running off the brake hose. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > p.s. Does it reduce the hydraulic fluid movement in the fork legs when > the front brake is applied? In theory when the front brake is applied brake fluid pressure forces a plunger down in a seperate chamber which closes off a valve on the front of the fork leg - this limits the flow of fork oil as the forks try to compress under braking in proportion to how much brake pressure is applied. In practise this doesn't happen; the plunger sticks and this leads to the forks locking up or the anti-dive just not working at all, or working randomly. This is an MOT fail as they test the anti-dive as well. There's a simple solution that requires the fabrication of a pair of plates to blank off the plungers from the forks These plates need a groove maching in to allow the fork oil to move between two chambers in the forks. It's simple to do and I'll be making/fitting them to a GPZ750 Turbo very soon. SignatureLozzo SV650S K5, CBR600F-W, SR250 SpazzTrakka and a sh.t load more 2-wheeled junk in the garage I believe in free speech, but I still have to pay my phone bill >> p.s. Does it reduce the hydraulic fluid movement in the fork legs when >> the front brake is applied? [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >try to compress under braking in proportion to how much brake pressure >is applied. Ah, so I was right then. ;-) > In practise this doesn't happen; the plunger sticks and >this leads to the forks locking up or the anti-dive just not working at >all, or working randomly. So is this sticking a basic design fault (as in it doesn't work from new) or something that could be resolved (if only temporarily) with some maintenance Lozzo? > This is an MOT fail as they test the >anti-dive as well. Great, "if it's fitted it has to work" sorta thing. >There's a simple solution that requires the fabrication of a pair of >plates to blank off the plungers from the forks These plates need a >groove maching in to allow the fork oil to move between two chambers in >the forks. Ok .. > It's simple to do and I'll be making/fitting them to a >GPZ750 Turbo very soon. Are these going to be 'machine engineered' (by you) or something we just knock up with a vice, hacksaw and angle grinder (for the groove)? If it's the former and assuming yours are the same size as mine (ooo missus <g>) how much for a pair please? [1] All the best .... T i m [1] I have a Myford ML10, pillar drill, linisher, bench grinder, wet grinder, 10 tonne press, loads of hand / power tools, (building up) air tools, Stick / MIG but no Mill as yet. :-( > If it's the former and assuming yours are the same size as mine (ooo > missus <g>) how much for a pair please? [1] T i m > [1] I have a Myford ML10, pillar drill, linisher, bench grinder, wet > grinder, 10 tonne press, loads of hand / power tools, (building up) > air tools, Stick / MIG but no Mill as yet. :-( I have the material, I need to have a word with a mate with a machine shop to sort the machining of the groove. I can cut and fashion the basic shape myself in the vice at home. In fact, I'd prefer to do this as it helps my hand to eye coordination since my TIA. SignatureLozzo SV650S K5, CBR600F-W, SR250 SpazzTrakka and a sh.t load more 2-wheeled junk in the garage I believe in free speech, but I still have to pay my phone bill >> If it's the former and assuming yours are the same size as mine (ooo >> missus <g>) how much for a pair please? [1] [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > >I have the material, So is this a bit of thick ally plate or bar that is the external dimensions of the valve body and thick enough to take a groove, deep enough to equal the open capacity of the original valve Lozzo? >I need to have a word with a mate with a machine >shop to sort the machining of the groove. Is this 'plate' to replace item: 16131 (bottom left here ...) http://tinyurl.com/57slgy > I can cut and fashion the >basic shape myself in the vice at home. In fact, I'd prefer to do this >as it helps my hand to eye coordination since my TIA. Ok, and I don't mind doing it either (especially in ally). I can mill a slot in the lathe (job on the tool post, cutter in the 3 jaw)? All the best .. T i m > > I have the material, > > So is this a bit of thick ally plate or bar that is the external > dimensions of the valve body and thick enough to take a groove, deep > enough to equal the open capacity of the original valve Lozzo? Yes. > > I need to have a word with a mate with a machine > > shop to sort the machining of the groove. > > Is this 'plate' to replace item: 16131 (bottom left here ...) > http://tinyurl.com/57slgy It doesn't replace it, it goes between that part and the fork leg blanking the anti-dive off but allowing free transfer of fork oil between the two ports you can see there. Details are on the 750 Turbo forum that Adie pointed me towards. SignatureLozzo SV650S K5, CBR600F-W, SR250 SpazzTrakka and a sh.t load more 2-wheeled junk in the garage I believe in free speech, but I still have to pay my phone bill snip> >Are these going to be 'machine engineered' (by you) or something we >just knock up with a vice, hacksaw and angle grinder (for the groove)? [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >grinder, 10 tonne press, loads of hand / power tools, (building up) >air tools, Stick / MIG but no Mill as yet. :-( It's an easy job. All you need to do is make a blanking plate that fits between the antidive and the forks and then mark off where the two ports are on the fork leg. Use a grinder to make a groove a couple of mm deep so that the oil can flow from one port to the other and then either fit the blanking plate on its own or use longer screws to retain the anti-dive unit and sandwich the plate between the unit and the forks as if it was an oversized gasket. >snip> >> [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] >retain the anti-dive unit and sandwich the plate between the unit and >the forks as if it was an oversized gasket. Cool, like I said then. ;-) I saw a Yam today with a similar setup and it looks like they had just re-plumbed the brakes and left the anti-dive stuff alone? If I was to replace the hoses with a pair of stainless braided ones directly from the master cylinder (or the splitter) I could by-pass much of the AD stuff anyway? So, is the AD cylinder sprung loaded in the open position so will naturally stay open if there was no brake pressure applied (easier than making the blanking plates for now)? All the best .. T i m >>snip> >>> [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] >the master cylinder (or the splitter) I could by-pass much of the AD >stuff anyway? I haven't got a clue about Yamaha systems, I only looked into the Kawasaki stuff because Adie had problems with hers. >So, is the AD cylinder sprung loaded in the open position so will >naturally stay open if there was no brake pressure applied (easier >than making the blanking plates for now)? The blanking plate is the easiest (and most idiot proof) way to do the job because it eliminates everything else. >>I saw a Yam today with a similar setup .. >> >I haven't got a clue about Yamaha systems, I only looked into the >Kawasaki stuff because Adie had problems with hers. Understood. FYI then it looks like some Yamaha systems are similar then, in design and because it seems some folk isolate the anti-dive system. ;-) >>So, is the AD cylinder sprung loaded in the open position so will >>naturally stay open if there was no brake pressure applied (easier >>than making the blanking plates for now)? >> >The blanking plate is the easiest (and most idiot proof) way to do the >job because it eliminates everything else. So, wouldn't the anti-dive piston be fully open under normal operation and if so would we have to at least match the flow rate within any blanking plate (and follow the spec on the drawing). http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=gx2aaEoS I think that image was for the Lozzo's 750 Turbo (assuming I've found the right thing) and it looks different on the 550? I have 4 bolts holding the ad unit onto the lower leg and the oil holes centrally placed between all 4, so I would need a different pattern blank? All the best .. T i m > use longer screws to > retain the anti-dive unit and sandwich the plate between the unit and > the forks as if it was an oversized gasket. Which is exactly what I'll be doing to Adie's SignatureLozzo SV650S K5, CBR600F-W, SR250 SpazzTrakka and a sh.t load more 2-wheeled junk in the garage I believe in free speech, but I still have to pay my phone bill >> use longer screws to >> retain the anti-dive unit and sandwich the plate between the unit and >> the forks as if it was an oversized gasket. > >Which is exactly what I'll be doing to Adie's I'm not sure I see the point of that solution though Lozzo. 1) You still have to make a plate. 2) You have to find some longer screws 3) You still have the a/d unit on here (weight, looks and part of the braking circuit). I can see why you might leave it there if there was any thought of putting it back but that's unlikely is it? I'm still unsure if we are talking about the exact same thing. That diagram I referenced from the 750Turbo site had 2 mounting holes, http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=gx2aaEoS my a/d unit has 4 mounting holes? http://tinyurl.com/57slgy Also (and just thinking out loud here and not trying to re-invent the wheel), if the blanking plate groove is 11mm wide x 5mm deep that's a csa of 55 sq mm. *If* the hole in the fork is also 11mm diameter that is Pi r^2 so 3.142 x5.5x5.55 = 95 sq mm. My question is how do we know what is actual capacity of the real a/d when in it's open position? ie, it may be less than 55 sq mm ? All the best .. T i m > My question is how do we know what is actual capacity of the real a/d > when in it's open position? ie, it may be less than 55 sq mm ? I don't know why or the technical reasons behind it, but there are some clever people on the Turbo site who've done the homework for me and designed a plate that works when fitted, all I have to do is replicate their design and fit and the job's done. Those who've fitted these plates say the forks still work and the anti-dive is definitely blocked off, I'm not going to argue with them. SignatureLozzo SV650S K5, CBR600F-W, SR250 SpazzTrakka and a sh.t load more 2-wheeled junk in the garage I believe in free speech, but I still have to pay my phone bill >> My question is how do we know what is actual capacity of the real a/d >> when in it's open position? ie, it may be less than 55 sq mm ? [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >Those who've fitted these plates say the forks still work and the >anti-dive is definitely blocked off, I'm not going to argue with them. My view on this discussion is that Adie managed to find an answer to the problem on the 750 within about 5 minutes of searching and if the 550 is different then until I own one and need to find a solution I can't be bothered wasting my afternoon on it. JFGI. >>> My question is how do we know what is actual capacity of the real a/d >>> when in it's open position? ie, it may be less than 55 sq mm ? [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] >550 is different then until I own one and need to find a solution I >can't be bothered wasting my afternoon on it. That's good then. You could have saved yourself even more time by .. All the best .. ;-) T i m >> My question is how do we know what is actual capacity of the real a/d >> when in it's open position? ie, it may be less than 55 sq mm ? [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >designed a plate that works when fitted, all I have to do is replicate >their design and fit and the job's done. Ok, I can understand that re the design of the plate Lozzo but continuing *our* thoughts on doing a job properly, why would you (they / anyone) bother to leave extra crap on there doing nothing (and adding weight) for no technically justifiable reason? >Those who've fitted these plates say the forks still work and the >anti-dive is definitely blocked off, I'm not going to argue with them. Of course they would still 'work' and of course the anti-dive is completely blocked off (so no one needs to argue with anyone) but I guess *we* are assuming that with no substantifying facts (other than 'it works') the plate design is optimal? Part of what I do is understanding what I am doing and why. I am willing to accept something may be an ideal solution but sometimes I like to know the science behind it. Like, I understand part of the problem of the original design is stiction? Anyway, as I've not had any comment whether the system on the 750Turbo is the exact same (or even similar) to the design and hydrodynamic function on the 550 (and it doesn't look like it is) it seems I'm on my own? All the best .. T i m >>The GPz's anti-dive is in no way related to the air in the forks, as >>it's a hydraulic take-off running off the brake hose. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >Is it worth removing though Ace (mention of substituting bits) or >should I just leave it all on there? I never bothered, but I only had the bike for a few months before it began to crumble[1] round me and was replaced by a GPX600. It never caused my any problems, but I've no idea if this was just good fortune or not. >p.s. Does it reduce the hydraulic fluid movement in the fork legs when >the front brake is applied? Something like that. Lozzo's reply will give the technical details, I'm sure. [1] It had done >30k miles, IIRC, and was fairly ratty when I bought it. Then I used it for a 150 miles/day commute, so it didn't take very long at all for stuff[2] to start wearing out. [2] Rear sub-frame broke off on one side, with evidence of a previous weld becoming visible. Clutch started slipping. And basically it was just shagged. Signature_______ .'_/_|_\_'. Ace (b.rogers at ifrance.com) \`\ | /`/ `\\ | //' BOTAFOT#3, SbS#2, UKRMMA#13, DFV#8, SKA#2, IBB#10 `\|/` ` >>>The GPz's anti-dive is in no way related to the air in the forks, as >>>it's a hydraulic take-off running off the brake hose. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >caused my any problems, but I've no idea if this was just good fortune >or not. Ok. Well apparently the anti-dive wasn't an issue for the last MOT about 100 miles (and 3 years) ago. That could mean that they didn't check for it I suppose but it might mean it could still be ok now. >>p.s. Does it reduce the hydraulic fluid movement in the fork legs when >>the front brake is applied? > >Something like that. Lozzo's reply will give the technical details, >I'm sure. Cheers. >[1] It had done >30k miles, IIRC, and was fairly ratty when I bought >it. Then I used it for a 150 miles/day commute, so it didn't take very >long at all for stuff[2] to start wearing out. Hopefully this bike won't get that sorta work (and if I needed to I might still prefer the R100RT). High mileage stuff generally makes sense for us as we can get it cheap and often lasts for years with our typical care and use. The CB 250 was about £200 with 64k on it and can still pull two of us at 70 mph (just). The Rover was £100 with nearly 200,000 on the clock (4 years ago) and this 49k GPZ 'sounds' quite good (to me anyway). >[2] Rear sub-frame broke off on one side, with evidence of a previous >weld becoming visible. And that's the other thing isn't it, it's history. This 550 has had 8 previous owners but I know the last two did no miles on it (not a good thing either). > Clutch started slipping. And basically it was >just shagged. A clutch wouldn't be that much though would it, but I guess you are saying the clutch was just the final straw Ace? All the best .. T i m p.s. I am a sucker for a wreck and get much more pleasure from turning said into something clean and useable (not concourse particularly but tidy). Watching this XT125 being craned onto the scrap lorry and not doing anything about it is still waking me at night (I got there just as it was happening and felt it was a bit late to ask if I could have / buy it etc). I asked him why he was getting rid and it was basically because he wanted the space and the bike had been a bit vandalized after it was stolen and when they couldn't get it started. I only saw a pair of broken clock glasses, a broken carb and ignition switch. Important things (wheels, saddle, frame, tyres, forks, tank, engine) all looked ok so the rest might have been easyish to do away with / source on eBay etc? I thought it might make a good little green laning bike for the daughter ... it was a Yamaha after all <sob> :-( What I want someone to tell me is that it was a POS and I'm better off without it. <sigh> > > You choose. Personally, I don't bother about the air in the front > > forks on the Kawasaki. The GT doesn't have anti dive though > > The GPz's anti-dive is in no way related to the air in the forks, as > it's a hydraulic take-off running off the brake hose. I realise that, it's the same system on the Turbo (although the Turbo doesn't have air assistance - IIRC) but the anti-dive may have an impact on the air pressure setting. > And was a complete waste of time in any case. Not sure if it had ever > had any effect, but on the one I had it certainly didn't add to the > overall handling. It works on mine - but, as you say, has no real effect. SignatureSimon >> > You choose. Personally, I don't bother about the air in the front >> > forks on the Kawasaki. The GT doesn't have anti dive though [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > >It works on mine - but, as you say, has no real effect. Ok, so if it 'can work' (even if ineffectual on the road) I'll check it the best I can but leave it alone for the moment / MOT. I want to do the minimum on / to this bike but anything bad I see / find I will have to at least make safe or work reasonably. Like the rear brake system so far. The caliper itself seems fine but the piston has a few rust pits on it. I cleaned it all, lubed it well, fitted new pads and assuming it doesn't leak will leave it like that for a short while, replacing the piston with a stainless one and new seals as soon as I decide I like the bike and it all runs properly. Similar with the rear master cylinder and brake mech in general. It was all one corroded blob and after a bit of time in my workshop is all starting to run more as it should again. Small parts I will probably change anyway (if they are cheap), like seals and spring clips etc) but hoses and rubber boots can all add up and a waste of money if they are actually working (even if not perfect). Once stripped, cleaned, rebuilt and working properly, it should all function as it should. If I decide to keep it then I'll probably give it a phase two makeover at a later date. All the best .. T i m p.s. One thing I think I would like to do is fit higher and slightly wider 'real' bars and possibly turn it into a fully naked bike. >> Hi all, >> >> Well, I seem to have my very first 4, running in the garden! ;-) >> >Yay! Good huh! ;-) ><Snip> >> >> The rear brake seems to drag quite a bit and the foot pedal seems to >> go to the stop. > >Seized fronts and spongey rear. Semi seized fronts (not dragging too badly and working when you pulled the lever) but seized / gone rear certainly! ;-) >Easily fixed. A caliper strip and >rebuild and new fluid. New seals and dust covers TOG, or just a good clean, piston lube (I have some of that red rubber brake assembly lube) and fresh DOT4? >Maybe new steel hoses. I'm not a fan but if the old rubber ones are bad I'll replace them with said. >> I also noticed all the rubbers that join the carbs to the air box seem >> to be not on the carbs and from a quick poke they seem very hard > >Pour boiling water over them. It softens them nicely. Just while you are getting them on or do they stay soft for a while? Are new ones generally soft? >> Also the front brake lever is snapped off at the end .. eBay? > >Yep. Or any supplier kk >> Oh, and the right hand bar feels a bit lose on the stanchion, how do I >> tighten it up please? > >Er, by tightening up the securing bolts. <g>, yes, but I've not seen those sort of bars before and the 'securing bolts' didn't seem that obvious? I'll have a furtle in the daylight though. >> I put the little probe into the battery and that stopped that light >> flashing, just need a bit more fuel to see if the lcd fuel gauge >> actually works (it does it's little disco thing when you switch on so >> I know the display does). > >It will. They rarely give trouble. Oh, good. I'm not a fan of electronics on motor vehicles generally. >> Can anyone remember which way the fuel tap works please? (obviously >> I've found ON or RES just not sure which is off) and any other >> thoughts as to what bits I should check / do please? > >There's no OFF position. It's a vacuum fuel tap so only passes fuel when >the engine's turning over. Ah, I did consider that option (like her XV750 I believe) but from the quick glimpse in the half light I thought I could only see one hose coming from the tap. I'll check it out better tomorrow. >There will be a PRIME position, though. Ah, and maybe where it was left to get the sump full of fuel. :-( Well, I'm looking forward to stripping the various bits down and sorting them out. No better way to get to know yer vehicle and put's you in a better position should you get problems on the road. All the best .. T i m p.s. Luckily, in every case I've been driving a vehicle and it's broken down I've been able to tell the AA / whoever exactly what was wrong. Fairly new Mk5 Cortina. Auto choke stuck on. I'd released it and got it going myself before the AA turned up (I did ring them to tell them). ;-) Sierra with semi seized caliper. The lights fused on the recovery lorry as it arrived and I had to jury rig a fix for him. ;-) R100RT, clutch splines stripped. Just got relayed 175 miles home. Driver just loaded it on as he did said riders of older bikes often knew more about their bikes than they did. ;-) >>> Oh, and the right hand bar feels a bit lose on the stanchion, how do I >>> tighten it up please? [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > 'securing bolts' didn't seem that obvious? I'll have a furtle in the > daylight though. IIRC, there are clamps that bolt into the top yoke, under the top yoke cover. It was a long time ago, though. Yeah, this matches what I remember: http://www.cmsnl.com/kawasaki-1986-a3-zx550_model12812/partslist/F2310.html SignatureEddie eddie@deguello.org His: ZX-9R, Elefant 900 http://www.last.fm/group/ukrm Hers: Monster S4R, GSX600F (breaking, everything must go!) >>>> Oh, and the right hand bar feels a bit lose on the stanchion, how do I >>>> tighten it up please? [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >Yeah, this matches what I remember: >http://www.cmsnl.com/kawasaki-1986-a3-zx550_model12812/partslist/F2310.html Ah, that's handy Eddie, thanks. ;-) As an aside, the logbook shows my bike as an 86 and a 'ZX550-A2' but the fiches suggest an 86 is an A3? Is this just down to when the bike was first registered (rather than built etc)? All the best and thanks again .. T i m > As an aside, the logbook shows my bike as an 86 and a 'ZX550-A2' but > the fiches suggest an 86 is an A3? Is this just down to when the bike > was first registered (rather than built etc)? It's quite likely to be an A2 that spent some time in a showroom. It doesn't matter, anyway: the differences will only be something minor like decal colours. SignatureBMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Yamaha XT600E Honda CB400F chateau dot murray at idnet dot com "What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time and hassle for no tangible benefit." >> As an aside, the logbook shows my bike as an 86 and a 'ZX550-A2' but >> the fiches suggest an 86 is an A3? Is this just down to when the bike [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >doesn't matter, anyway: the differences will only be something minor >like decal colours. Ah, brilliant, thanks TOG. Also as you seem to know such things <g>, why does the logbook call it a ZX550 when on the side panels it says GPz550 (I mean, apart from the Z and numbers the two are quite different)? FEIW, when doing an online insurance quote I chose for the model .. KAWASAKI GPZ 550 Sports 1981-1991 553cc Manual Petrol .. which was the best / nearest match but wasn't sure if the 'sports' bit was right (was there a sports model, is mine it etc)? All the best .. T i m p.s. Is this going to feel like a 900 Divvy to ride (the only other 4 I've ridden .. oh other than a CBR600 track bike for a few miles and that was mad)? :-( > Also as you seem to know such things <g>, why does the logbook call > it a ZX550 when on the side panels it says GPz550 (I mean, apart from > the Z and numbers the two are quite different)? Many manufacturers (Kawasaki in particular) use different names for their "branding" and for the "official" model names; this is an example of that. My ZX-9R is technically known as a "ZX900-E2". My GT750 was a Z750-P5, IIRC. There was a thread about this, just last week, I think. > FEIW, when doing an online insurance quote I chose for the model .. > > KAWASAKI GPZ 550 Sports 1981-1991 553cc Manual Petrol > > .. which was the best / nearest match but wasn't sure if the 'sports' > bit was right (was there a sports model, is mine it etc)? That should be the right one. > p.s. Is this going to feel like a 900 Divvy to ride (the only other 4 > I've ridden .. oh other than a CBR600 track bike for a few miles and > that was mad)? :-( I haven't ridden a Divvy much, but I guess it should be better. Nimbler, less lardy. SignatureEddie eddie@deguello.org His: ZX-9R, Elefant 900 http://www.last.fm/group/ukrm Hers: Monster S4R, GSX600F (breaking, everything must go!) > p.s. Is this going to feel like a 900 Divvy to ride (the only other 4 > I've ridden .. oh other than a CBR600 track bike for a few miles and > that was mad)? :-( CBR600s are quite tame really. Mines a bit less tame than most of its age due t the exhaust, filter and jetting kit, but it's not scary. A ZX10R C1H or GSXR1000 K5/6 is what I'd call mad SignatureLozzo SV650S K5, CBR600F-W, SR250 SpazzTrakka and a sh.t load more 2-wheeled junk in the garage I believe in free speech, but I still have to pay my phone bill >> p.s. Is this going to feel like a 900 Divvy to ride (the only other 4 >> I've ridden .. oh other than a CBR600 track bike for a few miles and >> that was mad)? :-( > >CBR600s are quite tame really. Mines a bit less tame than most of its >age due t the exhaust, filter and jetting kit, but it's not scary. I guess that depends on the fastest thing you had ridden before, what you were riding at the time and what you were wearing. I was on my R100RT and maty on his 600. He pulls over somewhere, basically nicks my BM (cos he wanted to have a go on one) and leaves me with his 600 to catch up. So, digital throttle, nothing happening below 6k and a jacket that inflates like a balloon when not sitting behind a f-off big screen. :-( Oh, and he's off filtering in the fairly fast moving traffic on my beemer. I do remember that it was very planted though, man-hole covers and the like didn't flick you sideways 6 inches like on the RT but as for 'fun', no, glad to be back on the old BM. > A >ZX10R C1H or GSXR1000 K5/6 is what I'd call mad I'm quite sure, and hence why they have never interested me. The 900 Divvy was obviously capable of much more than I asked of it but (and it was superior to the RT in nearly every way) but left me completely cold [1]. I'm even looking at this 550 and wondering if I can raise and widen the bars somehow? I wouldn't even mind losing the little fairing and making it just a naked bike (and with a steerable headlight). All the best .. T i m [1] I was loaned it for a week. I rode it about then home the first day I got it and similar the second time when I took it back. The 900 > Divvy was obviously capable of much more than I asked of it but (and > it was superior to the RT in nearly every way) but left me completely > cold That's how it left me. I bought a new one in about 2000. It was incredibly efficient, reliable, comfy, decent fairing, big tank: it replaced my Kawasaki GT750 as a comuter and tourer. I just got bored to hell with it, and chopped it in for a Triumph Trophy 1200 (which in turn got chopped for the present BMW). The 900 Div was a bloody good working bike: if I was a long-distance despatch rider, I'd have one. Oh, and it was a lardy old bus. God knows why it weighed as much as it did. > The 900 >> Divvy was obviously capable of much more than I asked of it but (and [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >to hell with it, and chopped it in for a Triumph Trophy 1200 (which in >turn got chopped for the present BMW). Maybe BM's are something you grow into as you (we) get older then TOG. ;-) >The 900 Div was a bloody good working bike: if I was a long-distance >despatch rider, I'd have one. Agreed. This one had done 60k and never been touched. >Oh, and it was a lardy old bus. God knows why it weighed as much as it >did. Yeah, I noticed that (especially compared with the old RT) The Divy dry (239kg) is the same weight as my RT with 5 gallons of fuel but it felt much heavier. When I got this 550 in the back yard last night it wasn't easy to maneuver into place as the brakes were dragging so I thought I'd try lifting the back round, and much to my surprise I did, quite easily. ;-) All the best .. T i m I was really looking forward to getting stuck into it today but as I was tidying up the bits yesterday, instead of lifting my leg up ready to over the crap just behind the garage door I knee'd (hard) the steel door frame instead. I still can't bend my leg properly ... :-( > Also as you seem to know such things <g>, why does the logbook call > it a ZX550 when on the side panels it says GPz550 (I mean, apart from > the Z and numbers the two are quite different)? GPz is the sort of 'public' model name. 'ZX' is Kawasaki's own ID scheme. Confusing, I know. > p.s. Is this going to feel like a 900 Divvy to ride (the only other 4 > I've ridden .. oh other than a CBR600 track bike for a few miles and > that was mad)? :-( No way >> Also as you seem to know such things <g>, why does the logbook call >> it a ZX550 when on the side panels it says GPz550 (I mean, apart from >> the Z and numbers the two are quite different)? >> >GPz is the sort of 'public' model name. 'ZX' is Kawasaki's own ID >scheme. Confusing, I know. Tell me about it. It's ok once you know you can generally use any anagram of a mix of letters but up till then? :-( >> p.s. Is this going to feel like a 900 Divvy to ride (the only other 4 >> I've ridden .. oh other than a CBR600 track bike for a few miles and >> that was mad)? :-( > >No way Cool. So would you say it is an 'interesting' bike to ride (today) and why please? If there were any ergonomic adjustments you would make to it, what would they be? All the best .. T i m p.s. The previous owner noted the bars felt very narrow (compared with his Firestorm at the time anyway). > Cool. So would you say it is an 'interesting' bike to ride (today) and > why please? It makes a nice noise. It's amazingly economical. It's just 'fun'. > If there were any ergonomic adjustments you would make to it, what > would they be? I'd change the bars for something a bit lower. Maybe Telefix. >> Cool. So would you say it is an 'interesting' bike to ride (today) and >> why please? > >It makes a nice noise. It's amazingly economical. It's just 'fun'. Oh, ok, well I'll look forward to that then. ;-) Re the economy TOG. What I have read so far it suggests about 50 mpg? FWIW that's about the same as my 1000 cc BM and 1900cc Rover 218SD? CB Two Fifty about 75 mpg? >> If there were any ergonomic adjustments you would make to it, what >> would they be? >> >I'd change the bars for something a bit lower. Maybe Telefix. Lower, why? All the best .. T i m p.s. I just phoned my friendly tame parts supplier: 4 x air box to carb rubbers ~ £18 (for 4) [1] 2 x caliper seals ~£8 (for the two). 1 x new front brake lever ~£6. Rear master cyl parts available separately. [1] if they are very much softer new it might save a lot of mucking about (hot water etc)? > Re the economy TOG. What I have read so far it suggests about 50 mpg? Overall, yes. But it's very easy to get closer to 60mpg if you don't exceed 80 very often. > FWIW that's about the same as my 1000 cc BM and 1900cc Rover 218SD? CB > Two Fifty about 75 mpg? I'd expect a little less for the 250 - maybe 60-65mpg. SignatureBMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Yamaha XT600E Honda CB400F chateau dot murray at idnet dot com "What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time and hassle for no tangible benefit." >> Also as you seem to know such things <g>, why does the logbook call >> it a ZX550 when on the side panels it says GPz550 (I mean, apart from >> the Z and numbers the two are quite different)? >> >GPz is the sort of 'public' model name. 'ZX' is Kawasaki's own ID >scheme. Confusing, I know. Not unusual, though. I currently own an SC25, an SC22 and a CB1. Okay, the last one's obvious, but the other two aren't. SignatureSalad Dodger "Haffely, Gaffely, Gaffely, Gonward." > On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 07:16:32 +0100, totallydeadmail...@yahoo.co.uk > [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > > All the best .. Having been instantly flamed for not doing my homework, and with an eye on insurance claims, is this not the kind of homework that finding your local Kawasaki dealer could get you a pass grade in? OE should always be used, despite you could take an impression of the existing brake lever with a large supermarket cob or wodge of papier mache then fashion one from araldite...you should declare the mod lest a valuer decide not to pay out in the event of a write-off. Things to consider with eBay (any mail order) are is the P&P and comission really worth it for second hand parts that are likely to be in a breakers'? GPZ550s aren't exactly a rarity (albeit levers are often damaged when the things blow over in the wind and so on). Your log book may indicate it is an import, or it could be linked to the engine number, or it could just be Kawasaki eccentricity--as various other models aren't on the log book what they say they are on the Decals. But yes the GPZs were considered a "sports" (rather than track or race) bike. > T i m > > p.s. Is this going to feel like a 900 Divvy to ride (the only other 4 > I've ridden .. oh other than a CBR600 track bike for a few miles and > that was mad)? :-( Dunno. Probably not. I prefer Suzuki cams to any other Jap. I always found Yammies a bit sluggish too. Kawasakis tend to be good high revvers when you've re-run it in (just take it gently for the first 1500-3000 miles). Don't be too worried if the gearbox (as opposed to the clutch) is a bit clunky to start with as the cogs will move about a little. I found a bit like cars/vand/trucks that it's possible to improve the meshing by being careful about changes. Also, do remember Kawasaki's pedigree in the snowmobile and jetski sectors before you start to worry too much about a bit of rain - or even 150 miles of persistent downpour. Bit minimalist here on the expert guidance though as a first impression. Maybe more people ought to get speech to text. I have a high WPM, unless you (all) do too it probably takes me less time to type this than it would take you to think it. So, yes, I have plenty of time to enjoy my life as well. In fact, I'm off for a spin now. G DAEB COPYRIGHT (C) 2008 SIPSTON -- < snip > He's a loony; but, he's a happy loony. SignatureEddie eddie@deguello.org His: ZX-9R, Elefant 900 http://www.last.fm/group/ukrm Hers: Monster S4R, GSX600F (breaking, everything must go!) > < snip > > > He's a loony; but, he's a happy loony. He's like a low rent Auvache. And Steve isn't exactly high cost in the first place. > >Pour boiling water over them. It softens them nicely. > > Just while you are getting them on or do they stay soft for a while? TYhey'll stay soft for long enough. > Are new ones generally soft? Softer, certainly. And expensive. SignatureBMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Yamaha XT600E Honda CB400F chateau dot murray at idnet dot com "What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time and hassle for no tangible benefit." >> >Pour boiling water over them. It softens them nicely. >> >> Just while you are getting them on or do they stay soft for a while? > >TYhey'll stay soft for long enough. Ah, ok. ;-) >> Are new ones generally soft? > >Softer, certainly. And expensive. Gotcha, boiling water it is then. All the best .. T i m > Hi all, > > Well, I seem to have my very first 4, running in the garden! ;-) Oh, yes, of course--they are a 550/4. <snip> > I didn't run it for long because I was suspicious of how much 'oil' > was in the engine (you had to lay it over (away) to see the level in > the sight glass) and when I drained and re-filled it again it seemed > to take half as much as I took out (and probably where all the petrol > had gone. Once I've got it a bit tidier I'll change the oil and > filter again properly). I think you should be looking at about 2.8L as some gets caught in the filter. Is the case stamped 3.4? A drain and refill (no filter) from 10W/40 to 20W/50 for the baking summer roads took a little under 3L. The level may vary also with where the engine stops in its cycle - or this could be just down to me priming mine more than necessary (or not...see below IRT your question about fuel taps). > Fired it up, all pipes running hot and it seems to tick over and rev > up a treat .. ;-) > > Also the front brake lever is snapped off at the end .. eBay? If the lever is usable I would recommend local breakers' first stop - once you've worked out how to get the lever on and off - as they may well be open to you trying a few for size until you find one which fits. Or check out the small ads in the bike press (MCN). I understand a scheme was prototyped whereby a ring (in a good sense, not the making stolen bikes reappear in untraceable guises sense) of reputable breakers were linked to bulk-text (SMS) and parts could be ordered from a nationwide network with one call. On the other hand a guy I kind of know loosely and have no reason to doubt recommended eBay as he found a guy with spares for his Canadian import within an hour. > Oh, and the right hand bar feels a bit lose on the stanchion, how do I > tighten it up please? No idea. There's also a guy who specialises in Haynes manuals for everything if anyone knows his number. > I put the little probe into the battery and that stopped that light > flashing, just need a bit more fuel to see if the lcd fuel gauge [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > I've found ON or RES just not sure which is off) and any other > thoughts as to what bits I should check / do please? At the risk of either duplicating information or being accused of being a misinformational troll 8?). my knowledge of this goes back to when I used a Suzuki vacuum tap. At first sight they are identical but ISTR, as it was a dealer I knew, that Suzukis you prime every time you start them and Kawasakis you prime once, until the tank runs out. Leaving the tap in the PRI position may be what caused petrol flow into the block in the first place - hence my comments about oil level changing - it may not do, it may just be eked out as a petroil mix. I thought someone locally was taking the mick out of my yearsof riding two-strokes when my back was turned when I could smell the petrol in the oil pan...but on reflection mayhaps not. I started off priming mine before every start, as per Suzukis, then one morning when I forgot about the tap and just pressed start and it slowly eased into life with no throttle and no choke, I took to only priming it when the filler cap had been opened or I'd heard the vacuum hissing, as it does on a hot day when parked up. Right now I just leave it set to "ON". I thought for a while I was getting better fuel economy by priming it every start, and this was to do with the integrity of the vacuums, but despite not having had a comparable long (150miles+) journey on which to assess it since, I'm not actually convinced of this now. Fuel just runs through when it is on prime until the float overflows, SFAICT. Whereas in "ON" or "RES" is needs to be drawn. You will however need to prime it from dry, and after the tank has been removed. As such, if you run your main tank off you would need to prime it before you can use the RES--no idea of capacity, not needed it, probably about 10 miles. Do check it out but you may find with them being vaccum carbs that you have a dual cable accelerator. It is entirely possible one of these is a "decelerator" which actively closes the flow. In short, there is no "OFF" position on Kawasaki or Suzuki vaccum fuel taps (other makes? I dunno). If it is left in "PRI" fuel will run out all over the place. If it is left in "ON" or "RES" the fuel will need to be pulled out. As such, when you remove the tank, make sure it is in "ON" or "RES", and, paradoxical as it may seem, the fuel will stay in the tank. You will probably need to remove the tank to check the state of the plugs, for example, which thankfully seem OK. I don't suppose you can tell from a description whether my Scottoiler has ever been used or whether there's just a wee bit of oil in it from whoever installed it? It looks pristine, and I'm not convinced it's actually fitted and have no docs or instructions, or any idea whether it's a straight drip-drip-drip, an electric graduated drip or a vaccum-linked drip. Or even if it's the right one for the machine. So old lubes and solvents and elbow grease and grease, and old lubes, and solvents are my current solution... > All the best .. > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > well but with umpteen bikes and 1,000,000 other things I'm supposed to > be sorting ... <sigh> May be duplicating what's already in the thread but that's my two cents. G DAEB COPYRIGHT (C) 2008 SIPSTON -- We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember FCS <sipston_777@my-deja.com> saying something like: >OE should always be used, despite you could >take an impression of the existing brake lever >with a large supermarket cob or wodge of papier >mache then fashion one from araldite.. " " >At first sight they are identical but ISTR, as it was a dealer >I knew, that Suzukis you prime every time you start them " " SignatureDave GS850x2 XS650 SE6a "It's a moron working with power tools. How much more suspenseful can you get?" - House <Megasnip> It has to be said: you know f.ck all. ><Megasnip> > >It has to be said: you know f.ck all. No it doesn't - it's plainly obvious. Signature_______ .'_/_|_\_'. Ace (b.rogers at ifrance.com) \`\ | /`/ `\\ | //' BOTAFOT#3, SbS#2, UKRMMA#13, DFV#8, SKA#2, IBB#10 `\|/` ` >><Megasnip> >> >>It has to be said: you know f.ck all. > >No it doesn't - it's plainly obvious. Where the f.ck did this loon come from? I've had a week away and all of a sudden there's another idiot appeared and it's only a matter of days before he and Des form another anti-clique. |
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